EMS Travelogue

Slipping into crisp cotton sheets and a bed I didn’t have to make myself last night was heaven. Being clean and dry first was icing on the cake.

I struck out last night on trekking gloves. I can find the poles with the gloves, but at 100 euro + for one… I just can’t justify that. I also manage to find stamps, so the postcards I’ve been carrying since Biarritz will finally make it in the mail with the cards I picked up here in Pamplona. I think I’ve remembered everyone who asked for a postcard, but you may want to drop me an email to be sure.

I finally make it down to the spa and get an appointment for a massage and a ‘spa circuit,’ which I think includes a whirlpool, sauna, and steamroom (No emotional shower though.) I run to Carrefour to pick up another bottle of fizzy water. I’m not drinking nearly enough yet, so I force myself to shotgun as much of it as possible.

The massage was great, the whirlpool was so so, but the steamroom helped chase away the last of the mountain chill in my bones. After my massage I decided to visit the Cathedral. On the way I found a tiny perigrino supply shop. While they didn’t have the gloves I need, they did have a reasonable set of replacement trekking poles – light, not too outrageously expensive. At some point I’ll have to figure out what to do with my originals. They’re not useful to me without the gloves, but I also can’ t bring myself to leave them behind.

The Cathedral is lovely, and I suspect that because it’s a Holy year, they have all of their relics on display; it strikes me that most of the churches in Europe that have relics have them in the same display cabinets, but they keep the cupboard doors shut. Here they had three full on skeletons in full dress on display in their glass coffins. Very weird.

After a short walk, I head back to the hotel. The whole point of today is to rest, so I’m struggling with the temptation to walk the whole city. I spend the afternoon resting.

I get up for dinner and head to Cafe Iruña for a drink. I can see why Hemingway dug this spot. There’s a little road just off of the square here that is lined with bars. It’s absolutely packed! I wander the street twice until I find a spot where I like the vibe. I belly up to the bar and get a beer. There is nothing quite like being a (somewhat clean) dirty hiker in your one outfit surrounded by people dressed to impress. Once again though, the bar staff has the good graces not to say anything. I order a beer and peruse the selection on the counter in front of me.

I admit, I started safe with croquettes. They were delicious! Warm, creamy, crunchy, salty. Everything you want in a bar snack. After the ‘safe’ bet, I decided to go a bit more adventuresome.

I gotta be honest, I’m not 100% sure what it was. There’s ham on the bottom, a shrimp on top, and I think the noodly looking things were a type of squid, cut into ribbons. Whatever it was, the whole toast was delicious!

I wrapped up my evening with an amble back to the square and stopped at the heladería for two scoops. There’s just something about a cold, rainy night that calls for ice cream, yes?

I have a relatively short walk tomorrow of around 12 miles, so I don’t have to be out the door at the buttcrack of dawn. Having booked my accommodation for tomorrow in advance has taken a lot of pressure off, although I suspect it limits some of the romance. Looking forward to getting back on the Camino and starting this next stage of the trip!