Today’s start was beautiful! I have a long way to go today, so I wanted to be up and at ’em early. I got to watch the sunrise via my shadow. I also kept turning around to see the blushes of sunrise on mountains around us. The snowy peak from my last post is still on my left, incidentally, but it appears that it’ s getting further towards my back with each step. I am hoping it stays that way!
I have one big hill for the day and I’m watching it all morning. Once I get about 3/4s of the way up, there’s a small hand lettered sign indicating that we’re almost to the top and there’s a park with fruit and cold beverages for sale and to smile and enjoy the way. I enjoyed the sign so much I stopped for a fruit and fruit juice and enjoyed the park.
Soon after descending that hill, the path made a turn and tracked along a major highway. I am finding that the days along the highway are tough for me. I think the absolutely absurdity of what we’re doing hits me hardest when cars are zooming past you all day and you know that they will reach your destination in minutes. The milage markers are also more demoralizing when you’re on foot. A kilometer takes a lot longer on foot that by car and when you know you still have 17, 16, 15 more to go…
I am still not drinking nearly enough water so today, in part to take my mind off the mile markers and in part to address the dehydration situation, I invented a new game. I’m calling it ‘Slug-gluggy’ sort of like ‘Punchbuggy’. The rule is every time I pass a slug, a snail, or a worm, I have to take a sip of water. I know, sounds weird even typing it now, but today was the first day I drank all of my water. So I have that going for me, which is nice!
I haven’t stepped on one of these guys yet, but I imagine it’s a big slide.
Tonight’s albergue is tiny, just 5 beds. When I arrive, I learn that it’s owned/operated by a delightful German couple. Sabina welcomes me in like a long lost friend with a cup of tea and chats with me about my day before checking me in. After happily taking my soggy, muddy boots and setting them by the heater to dry out over night, she shows me upstairs to the ‘dorm.’ I say ‘dorm’ because it’s really the spare bedroom of their house. I can see their bedroom and the only bathroom is right off of the kitchen. Now, this could be a super awkward situation, but Uli and Sabina are such delightful hosts that it just felt like home.
It turns out there are only 3 pilgrims tonight; one is a woman who was on the mountain top way back on the second day. The three of us sit down with Sabina and Uli for a totally atypical pilgrim meal. Uli has completed several Caminos and knows all about perigrino menu fatigue. So, he calls back to his German roots for his menus. Tonight we had a vegetable soup with strips of yesterday’s crepes for noodles and a beef stew of sorts with clove and cilantro over egg noodles. Sabina made a lovely cream run through with chocolate for dessert. And all around was good conversation and laughter. An absolute delight of an evening!
I set out the next morning with a packed lunch and light footsteps. Today’s walk is through the last forest that we’ll see until the meseta ends after LeĂłn. Uli mentioned that towards the top there is a rest shelter that is a good spot for a picnic lunch because you can see the Pyrenees. It appears, however, that my luck with the Pyrenees is going to hold steady, because this was my view –
My heart is absolutely full as I walk. I have found a rhythm and I’m starting to see the possibility of Santiago. As an added bonus, I come upon the cutest ground keeping crew I’ve ever seen! I’m not sure how I feel about kid labor though.
Soon enough, I arrived in Burgos where I’m taking a rest day and splurging on a hotel. If every albergue was like Sabina and Uli’s, I likely wouldn’t stay in hotels for the rest of the trip. However, I’m finding more of ‘Mr. Grumpy Snores’ than Casa Las Almas.
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