Today dawns bright and calm. After last night’s excitement, it seems like everyone is getting a slow start to the day. Breakfast is less than appealing, and even though I know I need to get in more calories given the temperature and wind, I manage only half a bar before calling it quits for the morning. Fortunately, packing up goes down more easy, and I’m on my way before 9.
The walk out of the valley is smooth and serves as a good warm-up. Soon, the trail turns to the big climb of the day. Getting out early helps because the ground stays frozen, making the trail less slippery. Slowly but surely, I make my way to the top, and the view! Ahead of me stretches a verdant valley leading to the foothills of the brutal snowy crags in the distance. The contrast between the environments is overwhelmingly beautiful, and I’m struck by how lucky and grateful I am to experience all of this.
After taking a few moments to let it all sink in, I start off again. The terrain quickly shifts to an almost alien lunar landscape. Surrounded by black sand and lava rocks, the view seems to stretch on forever. Surprisingly, we start seeing vehicles today—some cars, but mostly large campers. All too soon, I come to the first water crossing. Several of us scout the area but can’t find a reasonable spot to rock-hop, so it’s time to get wet! Shoes come off, hugely ugly knockoff Crocs go on, and into the water I go. It turns out, glacial runoff is very cold indeed. Within seconds, I can no longer feel my toes. The crossing is short, though, and the pain is soon over. I make sure to dry and clean my feet before continuing.
Throughout the day, the terrain keeps alternating between green, mossy valleys filled with tiny plants and flowers, and the grey-black volcanic landscape. Half the day, I’m pretty sure that at any moment, Matt Damon is going to come around the corner in his Mars rover.
At one point, I think I see the tracks of a cat-sized quadruped in the black shifting sands. There hasn’t been much in the way of wildlife on this trip outside of the sheep. I’m assuming these tracks are from a fox, but I never get any clear signs.
Shortly after the midway point, I come across a sign. It’s the first I’ve seen on this trek with a final sentence that’s either funny or a point of pride for the danger I’ve survived so far—I can’t quite decide.
The reveal of the Emstrur huts is delayed until you’re almost on top of them. The final descent looks gnarly on the map but turns out to be quite gentle. The huts are stacked down a finger of a ravine. I stop by the information hut and greet the warden.
After checking in and getting my hut assignment, the warden generously offers some freshly cooked salmon. I take it down the hill to my hut and sit at the picnic table on the porch, hunched over my fish like Gollum. The wonderfully fatty fish is delicious, with the skin being an unexpected treat.
Somehow, I’m the first to arrive at camp today. After finishing my fishy treat, I sit for a few minutes, enjoying the view, before heading inside to wash the plate the warden gave me. Soon, people I’ve grown to know filter in. Tonight’s hut has side-by-side mats, so it’ll be close quarters. I figure I should actually brave the shower today.
Stepping into the cubicle, I don’t have high hopes, but the water quickly turns steaming hot. I step in and wash off the worst of the grime. The best part is feeling the dirt come out of my hair. I luxuriate in the hot water until it shuts off, and by then, I’ve warmed up enough that toweling off isn’t unpleasant. While I’m glad to be clean, I know that tomorrow I’ll have to put my filthy clothes back on, which I’m less than excited about.
Tonight is our last meal as a group. Befitting a family meal, everyone shares food and stories alike. It’s a magical way to end the trip, even though there’s still one more day to go. As we’ll all be heading our separate ways tomorrow, it feels like a fitting conclusion.
The aurora is once again on display for us tonight! The Tutus drop in to let us know that the celestial show has started and we all pile out again to watch. The hut and the mountains create amazing frames for the light show tonight and we sit and watch for several hours.
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