Thunderstorms are expected today, because of course. I can’t complain though because I had expected miserable weather for yesterday’s ascent. I have two short days heading into Sarria and the worst of the storms aren’t expected until the day after tomorrow. I head out of my depressing lodgings and start the long climb down the mountains. The gathering clouds make it look like I’m walking in the ocean, with the peaks jutting out like islands.
I know that Sarria will mark the transition to the end of this trip, so I’m trying to stay present every day and be grateful for this experience. The amazing views (yes, I realize I’ve said that about every day this stage. Words truly can’t do justice!) help my focus. I am also grateful that the descent from O Cebreiro is much more gentle than expected. It’s just long. Really, really long.
I reach town just as heavy clouds start rolling in between two peaks. Because it’s a short day, I’m at my lodgings super early so I opt to grab a snack and a beer before checking in. I’m suddenly surrounded by Americans and they all seem to be talking about the college group that I kept running into. The currents of the Camino lead to strange echoes. One of the guys starts asking about my pack and questioning why I have such a ‘huge bag.’ He suggests I should have gone for something half it’s volume. From their conversation, I know he also started in St Jean. Rather than argue, I opt to thank him for his reco and let it go.
I check in and find it a bit odd when I’m handed the key. Most places the owner/host/hospitaliero will grab your bag and show you your room. When he explains how to get there, I realize why I’m left to my own devices. I ascend to the 4th floor (which to Americans is 5th…) and find that I’m basically in an attic. I have a small, triangular gables window. I desperately need to do laundry, but the thought of navigating the stairs multiple times today is a non-starter. Since I have a bathtub, I decide that hiker laundry on just the essentials for tomorrow will have to do.
At dinner tonight, I finally get some of the local cheese for desert. Having seen cows for days, I am excited for the soft farmer’s cheese served with local honey. It’s sweet and savory with just a hint of tang and is absolutely delicious!
I decide to walk around town before heading back to my cell. As I get to the far end of town (about three city blocks) a tour bus pulls up and disgorges ~30 primary school kids who immediately swarm down the side streets. I’m not sure if this is a school trip or summer camp, but their energy is contagious. The noise and press of people is, however, a little overwhelming. I know Santiago is a pretty big city, so I’m taking this as a precursor of what’s to come.
After a rather soggy night’s sleep due to my drying laundry, I head out on the alternate route to Samos this morning. While this is the ‘path less travelled,’ I suddenly start running into people from earlier in the trip. My favorite is the Israeli pilot I met in Roncesvalles who kept referring to me as ‘the IT guy.’ He’s now hiking on his own, as his son was only with him for the first week and a half. We walk and catch up for a bit which is surprisingly nostalgic.
Part of the draw of Samos is the Monastery and I manage to get into town early enough to catch one of the tours. I drop my pack outside the gift shop (per their request) and buy my ticket. As I’m standing around waiting, an American woman comes over and strikes up a conversation with me. She has just arrived on the Camino and is part of a group that is starting their trek tomorrow. We chat a bit and soon another American couple joins us. They too are just starting on their journey. They start talking packing and logistics and the first woman comments that she’s sending her pack ahead every day because ‘only a farm animal would carry their stuff every day.’ At that point, one of the monks appears and I walk over to my trusty backpack/companion and shoulder my world with a bit of a shrug to the new perigrina. I resist the urge to moo at her.
The monastery is really pretty and I’m pleased that even though the tour is only in Spanish and the monk is speaks so quickly that I’m able to understand parts. I’m reminded of several of the temples in Japan – The monastery had burned several times, so parts of the it were fairly modern reconstructions. That being said, I could feel the pull of the peaceful monastic life. I had a moment of envy for the brothers we past along the tour. That and I really liked their capes!
After the tour I headed to my albergue where I was relieved to see they had a washing machine. My relief was immediately tempered by the lack of a dryer though. Due to the funk of my gear, I decided to roll the dice and hand over everything I own to get cleaned. While clouds threatened yesterday, the promised rain never came; the skies and the air make it apparent that I won’t get lucky twice. I left for a bit to catch up on journaling and post cards and when I came back, the albergue owner had not only washed everything, but had it hung up on the clothes racks in a nearby shelter. I collected the items that were mostly dry before the heavens opened. Unfortunately, I discovered that one of my socks had gone missing. I’ll be in a bit of trouble if I only have one pair of socks for the remainder of the trip! I check all of the drying racks and the ground around with no luck. I’m hoping that someone else accidentally grabbed it and will return it by morning.
I scope out the three restaurants in town and set my eye on one that seems promising. They have a party of ten showing up, but agree to let me in as long as I order quickly. I get my order in and settle down for some people watching, hoping that the American lady from earlier isn’t part of the approaching hoard (She wasn’t.) I have to say, I didn’t have huge hopes for this restaurant, but I was blown away. The first dish was a tomato salad with more of the local cheese. Vegetables, well, good vegetables have been hard to come by on this trip. These tomatoes were as good as anything I’ve had at home. And the steak that was my main. Oh my gosh! Absolutely delicious! I couldn’t help myself so I splurged on dessert – which was more of the local cheese.
Apparently a full belly helps my brain work. I head back to the albergue and decide to check the washing machine. Sure enough, tucked in the inside corner of the drum, I find my errant sock. Huzzah! Cheered by the idea of being able to have clean, dry socks every day still, I head to bed. Tomorrow, Sarria and the final stage!
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